Hurghada Dive Sites Fourteen reefs north of the marina

Fanous West

27°15.85′ N · 33°52.79′ E · 0–14 m · 30 min

Generally, a flat sandy bottom runs alongside a shallow reef wall, with a narrow channel leading through a coral garden into a nine-metre lagoon. Besides, ergs and pinnacles stand off to the west. Because it is protected in any conditions, this is the site most courses end up on.

Two plans work equally well. Drop in at the north end with the reef on your left shoulder, follow the wall to the pinnacles, spend a few minutes there and then cross the coral garden, navigating back through the channel at safety-stop depth. Alternatively, start from the mooring, head out through the channel, work the garden slowly and turn around the ergs before checking your gas for a short run along the wall.

Watch for

• Besides, triggerfish nesting in August and September, which makes for close encounters
• Also giant morays swimming free across the coral garden
• Then turtles feeding in the garden, and dolphins passing along the wall

Fanous East

27°16.04′ N · 33°53.27′ E · 8–12 m, drop-off 19–27 m · 30 min

Notably, the beacon on top of the main reef gives the site its name; fanous is Arabic for lantern. Specifically, a shallow wall rises off a sloping sandy bottom scattered with coral blocks, and the shallow section is emphatically the best of it, with schooling fish playing in the surge.

Further, around twenty metres off the northwestern corner, two spectacular pinnacles rise from the floor under a coat of soft coral, split by cracks and cavities. Notably, there is a sloping drop-off to the east as well, but the time is better spent on the pinnacles and the wall than out over the deep.

Watch for

• Moreover, glassfish and silversides in clouds, harried constantly by jackfish and lionfish
• Also crocodilefish and bluespotted rays lying camouflaged on the sand
• Then a pod of dolphins, which turn up here fairly regularly
• In addition, surgeonfish, tangs and unicornfish over the shallows during the safety stop

El Fanadir, one of the busiest Hurghada dive sites

27°17.29′ N · 33°50.28′ E · 0–12 m, drop-off 20–25 m · 60 min

Overall, a long sloping wall runs here, with photogenic coral blocks alongside it and a shallow lagoon behind. Moorings sit in the lagoon and along the west side, so conditions rarely stop the dive. Its shape invites a drift along the wall, and in good weather the very north end is workable too.

Meanwhile, beside the wall a wide sloping shelf carries coral blocks over sand and ends around twenty to twenty-five metres at a drop-off into deep water. Nevertheless the wall itself is the attraction, cut with cracks and caves that hold an unusual amount of life. Notably, there is an outstanding coral block at twelve metres with a cleaning station on it, and El Fanadir is one of the most popular night dives on this coast.

Watch for

• Likewise, an almost unbroken trail of cleaning stations along the base of the wall
• Also yellow-edged, yellow-mouth and giant morays, often free swimming
• Then pipefish in quantity, which draws stonefish, scorpionfish and lionfish
• Octopus, common here but very hard to pick out

Carless Reef

27°18.80′ N · 33°56.45′ E · 12–17 m, drop-off 20–25 m · 60 min

Carless is the most exposed of the inshore Hurghada dive sites, rising abruptly out of deep water: two large pinnacles ringed by a coral garden plateau that slopes to a drop-off falling straight into the void. Unfortunately it needs genuinely good weather, since it sits in open sea with no protected moorings, and the current can be demanding on top of that.

Two plans work. First, start from the mooring and explore the plateau with its pinnacles and coral garden, or drift from north of the pinnacles down the eastern drop-off and finish around the garden and the smaller southern pinnacle. Above all, do not assume the current runs from the north as many briefings claim; it is unpredictable here and worth checking yourself.

Watch for

• Meanwhile, the moray eels this reef is famous for, unusually tolerant of divers
• Also everything from nudibranchs up to tuna and sharks, fed by the current
• Then hammerheads, which the first group in the water occasionally meets

Shaab Abu Nugar

27°20.45′ N · 33°50.20′ E · 0–14 m to a sheer drop-off · 90 min

Certainly, this is a reef system rather than a single site, sitting on sand with scattered pinnacles and coral gardens around it. Nevertheless, crossing can be rough in wind, yet there are several protected moorings once you arrive, which makes it a sound choice for mixed groups and for training.

Three distinct dives

• First, Torfa Abu Nugar to the north, running east to west with a coral garden and large table corals, which makes an excellent drift
• Then Gota Abu Nugar to the east, an oval reef rising to the surface and small enough to circle in a single dive
• Finally Erug Abu Nugar to the south, a tour from pinnacle to pinnacle over flat sand with coral blocks between them

Watch for

• Notably, cleaning stations, where groupers and snappers queue for shrimps and wrasses
• Also nudibranchs and other macro life, since the coral here is in good condition

North Umm Gamaar

27°21.100′ N · 33°54.300′ E · 0–24 m · 90 min

Namely, this is a bend in the Umm Gamaar reef, where a sandy bottom slopes past two big coral blocks into the abyss. Specifically, to the south the bottom gives way to a vertical wall; to the north it becomes a steep slope. Shelter is partial and there is little room for the boat, while the current can be ripping.

Because the two coral blocks are the deepest part, start there. Then work north along the wall to the split point, taking care not to end up in the flow running the wrong way. Finally, turn, come shallower towards the moorings, and if gas and time allow, look at the cave at eight metres before finishing on the top of the reef.

Watch for

• Certainly, big schools of anthias, snappers and sweetlips, which mark the split point
• Also groupers of several kinds, with butterflyfish everywhere
• Then gorgonians and soft coral draping the wall

Umm Gamaar, one of the deepest Hurghada dive sites

27°21.26′ N · 33°54.91′ E · 0–20 m plateau, then deep wall · 90 min

Generally, this island, ringed with coral, runs north to south with a plateau at each end and a sheer wall down both flanks. Moorings sit over the southern plateau. Her east side is the dramatic one: a deep wall punctuated by coral formations under soft coral, reaching out into the blue.

Specifically, the first two formations from the south are cut through with cracks that photographers rarely get past quickly, and the next one holds a cavern with a sandy ledge at twenty-nine metres. Meanwhile the southern plateau, sand with coral blocks across it, is less spectacular but often has free-swimming morays, big silver sweetlips and Napoleon wrasse on it.

Watch for

• Similarly, whitetip reef sharks patrolling the wall on the odd occasion
• Also the rare manta, since this is one of the few Hurghada reefs that reports them
• Then glassfish in every cavity, usually with red-tooth triggerfish alongside
• Above all, jackfish and tuna working the fusiliers, and barracuda hanging in mid-water

Shabruhr Umm Gamaar

27°21.55′ N · 33°54.55′ E · 15–30 m to a sheer drop-off · 90 min

Altogether, an oval reef sits here, circled by a shelf between fifteen and thirty metres, widening to a sandy flat on the west side and narrowing to a ledge on the east. Similarly, it sits in open sea and takes the weather accordingly.

This exposed reef has claimed at least three ships. Usually, the southern plateau can be dived from the mooring, a sloping half-covered coral garden with small pinnacles, and the remains of an Egyptian army supply vessel lost on her way to Shadwan Island lie there. Meanwhile the east side works as a natural drift from the north along an impressive wall, where the safari boat Colona IV also lies. Unfortunately she sits far too deep for recreational diving.

Watch for

• Of course, grey reef sharks in the afternoon, which few Hurghada sites can offer at all
• Also giant morays, large groupers and Napoleon wrasse
• Then tuna and bigeye trevally hunting through

Shaab Abu Galawa

27°18.29′ N · 33°47.58′ E · 0–12 m · 40 min from El Gouna

Usually, the reef comes up out of shallow sand with a coral garden running off the north side. Crossing can be rough, but the moorings themselves are protected. First, head out from the mooring with the reef on your right shoulder and take your time at the north end, where coral blocks and table corals are scattered across the bottom.

Then, coming back along the shallow reef, the wall is perforated with small cracks and holes. Therefore get close and slow down: this is a site for nudibranchs, shrimps and pipefish rather than for distance covered.

Watch for

• Furthermore, bluespotted rays digging the sand for invertebrates
• Also clownfish over anemones moving in the current
• Then unicornfish, surgeonfish and tangs cruising the reef top
• In particular, butterflyfish and angelfish spread right across the reef face

Sakhwat Abu Galawa

27°19.39′ N · 33°47.44′ E · 4–22 m · 50 min from El Gouna

In short, a plateau of coral gardens shelters a narrow lagoon over shallow sand, and to the north a shallow wall carries a shelf out to a drop-off. The reef sits in open water so the crossing can be bumpy, although the moorings are reasonably sheltered.

First, dive it as a drift. Drop a few hundred metres up the wall with it on your right shoulder; you can wander out over the plateau briefly, but the shallow ground is better. Soon, at the small plateau the reef turns sharply right and eventually swings a full half-circle back to the north, which is the entrance to the lagoon, where the depth comes up quickly to four metres. Finally, save that for the safety stop and spend the rest of your gas on the coral garden.

Watch for

• Gobies and their shrimps, which are everywhere once you start looking
• Also surgeonfish and unicornfish patrolling the top of the reef
• Then turtles in the coral garden, and dolphins passing occasionally

Siyul Al Kabeir

27°33.674′ N · 33°52.725′ E · 0–10 m behind the reef, 31 m on the north plateau · 110 min

Generally, a sheer wall on the north gives way to a plateau running east and south, with shallow pinnacles standing up on the southern side. Moorings behind the reef are protected, yet the crossing is over open sea and the current on the north side can be vicious.

Two options work. First, drift the wall from the north, turn the eastern corner over the plateau, come gradually shallower and finish among the southern pinnacles. Otherwise dive from the mooring: explore the pinnacles first, let the current decide how far round the eastern corner you go, drop down the slope and work steadily back up to the shallows before turning.

Watch for

• Overall, bluespotted rays resting along the bottom of the wall
• Also yellow-mouth, peppered and giant morays, all common here
• Then sweetlips and goatfish in large schools
• Equally, a zebra shark occasionally rests out on the sand

Siyul Al Saghir

27°32.34′ N · 33°51.55′ E · south 10–12 m, north 15–22 m · 110 min

Notably, a shelf follows the contour of the reef at fifteen metres and slopes to a northern drop-off between eighteen and twenty-two. The east end runs out into a coral garden, while the south side is flat sand at ten to twelve metres. Moorings behind the reef are protected, although the current can be strong on the north.

Dive it as a natural drift. Jump in on the north side with the reef on your right and you will usually have the current behind you coming back. The shelf is worth a look, but the main reef is the better half of the dive. Further, at the east end the coral garden spills out to the northeast, and two large coral blocks stand on the sand about thirty metres off the reef with a great deal going on around them. Then multilevel up and finish in the shallows on the south side.

Watch for

• Besides, schools of snapper, surgeonfish and goatfish along the wall
• Also Napoleon wrasse, groupers and morays, all resident
• Then giant pufferfish and bluespotted rays out on the sand
• Scorpionfish and stonefish, so watch where you settle

Elgelwa

27°33.26′ N · 33°52.20′ E · 0–10 m reef, garden 12–18 m · 110 min

Overall, an oval reef lies on a north-south axis with the moorings at the southern end, and a vast sloping coral garden runs west of it with a few pinnacles in between. Notably, waves are not the problem here; wind is, and the current can catch people out.

First, from the mooring, head west into the garden, adjust north at the first pinnacle and the next two line up straight ahead. Then, carry on north over the garden, drift slightly east and the main reef appears again. At that point go shallow, because the top of the reef is the best of it. Alternatively drop at the north end, work the garden first and come back onto the sloping main reef, staying shallow for the view.

Watch for

• Moreover, the hard coral itself, which is the reason to come here
• Also goatfish, bannerfish, snapper and sweetlips in schools
• Then pullers, damsels and anthias in among them
• In addition, crocodilefish and bluespotted rays on the sand, scorpionfish on the reef

Blind Reef

27°33.15′ N · 33°53.86′ E · steep wall to 35 m and beyond · 110 min

Blind Reef is the outermost of the Hurghada dive sites, a boomerang-shaped reef running east to west, ringed by a steep wall that slopes away into deep water. On the west side a narrow shelf sits between twenty and thirty-five metres. There is very little protection here and the current demands respect, so some experience is required.

First, dive it as a drift, and check the current first to find the split point. Both the east and the west sides give an excellent dive, so take whichever way the water is going. Specifically, coral formations and sand patches break up the wall, and coming round the eastern corner puts you over shallow sand on the south side, where a couple of pretty pinnacles make a good safety stop.

The western corner is equally good. Then, turning south, two coral towers rise off the wall at twenty metres and the cavities in them are worth a look. Meanwhile the south side is covered in fire coral and is at its best shallow.

Watch for

• Likewise, glassfish and silversides sheltering in the small caves from jackfish and tuna
• Also mackerel hunting through, and fusiliers passing in quantity
• Then pufferfish and porcupinefish, both common
• Meanwhile, a free-swimming moray or a turtle, both a reasonable bet